SWAIN’S Lane is blossoming into a food lover’s paradise – after an epic upgrade by the landlords.

A classy selection of independent food shops and restaurants are now trading in this cosy neighbourhood on the edge of Hampstead Heath.

It’s been a tough few years: a controversial retail redevelopment; the collapse of a few businesses post-Covid; and now a sprawling but soon-to-end road improvement scheme from the council.
But as spring unfolds, Swain’s Lane is definitely worth rediscovering – just make sure you bring a shopping bag.

Step into Roni’s Bakery, the delicatessen Superette, the fabulous butcher and grocers and Electric Daisy Flower Farm, an ethical flower shop promising a floral revolution.

London Shell Company, who run a fish restaurant on their barge on Regent’s Canal, are opening their first bricks-and-mortar site in the next few weeks.

Directly opposite is Swains – the focus of this week’s review.

This venture combines a wine bar, restaurant and wine shop and is run by a chatty and charismatic Australian called Victoria Sharples.

She’s spent a few decades in the wine trade – as importer, wine judge and head of vinous operations for St John restaurants.

But Swains Wine Bar & Store is not at all stuffy. In fact, it’s the friendliest place on the street – infused with a laid-back, communal atmosphere.

“People joke that it’s like Cheers,” Ms Sharples says, referring to the American sitcom.

We turned up for dinner, grabbing stools at the horseshoe bar. It’s a large space, the walls dotted with framed wine maps and ephemera and paintings of various beasts: wallabies; badgers; a series of dog portraits by an artist called Rob Clarke.

The food menu changes weekly and is designed to flex. You can snack on Marcona almonds, olives or a board of British cheeses alongside a fantastic glass of wine, of course.

Or share smaller plates such as oysters or the signature “eggplant chips” – deep-fried slices of aubergine served with a zippy chilli mayo.

We shared fingers of toast spread with a rustic tomato paste then topped with plump sardine fillets and dabs of aioli.

A fresh and oozy burrata cheese is served whole with a caramelised fig, peach and a scattering of toasted almonds.

Larger plates include a rib-eye steak with chimichurri and fries, a mushroom quiche, or a whole plaice with meunière sauce.

We shared spoonfuls of an unctuous saffron risotto with slow-cooked, meltingly tender pork cheeks.

The wine list is organised by style – with plenty by the glass – and is designed to surprise and intrigue.

Ms Sharples hosts informal wine tastings, too, such as an exploration of New World wines or a rare chance to taste first-growth Bordeaux from 2005 – all delivered with a marked lack of pretension.

Swains is currently open to eat and drink on Thursdays from 4.30pm and all day on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

It’s a wonderful place and a labour of love. “We’re changing lives one glass at a time,” quips Ms Sharples.

Swains Wine Bar & Store
Highgate Road, NW5 (on the corner of Swain’s Lane)
www.swains.london
@SwainsLondon
hello@swains.london