Goodbye Horses’ Carlingford Oysters

GOODBYE Horses has been open for almost a year, but the buzz still hasn’t died down. Even on a Tuesday night, every table was filled with chic natural-wine-drinking east London types.

Its unmarked entrance on the corner of a quiet De Beauvoir street belies a vibrant interior, where a thick oak bar snakes beneath the much-Instagrammed lantern mural that was hand-made in situ by artist Lucy Stein. According to founder George de Vos, she stood on the countertop to paint it, and the curtains are her creation too.

The wine list is all natural, and each of the sparkling red, white and orange glasses we had were complex, unusual and refreshing.

No establishment this close to the borough border of London’s small-plates capital (Hackney) would be worth its salt without an accompanying food menu, but the dishes at Goodbye Horses are anything but an afterthought.

For starters, the Carlingford Oyster with chilli vinaigrette had a spicy bite to them but not in the usual tabasco way.

Our favourites were the sweet prunes with rollright cheese – a sweet, soft delight – and crab toast with winter tomato.

The toast – milk bread cooked in burnt butter – was more like a brioche while still being nicely charred on the outside, and the fresh crab left a tangy garlic aftertaste that paired beautifully with the crisp spring tomatoes.

Our mains were fine: Dorset clams with chickpeas, and asparagus, soft egg and ham, topped with a sort of hollandaise sauce.

But that did little to dampen the vibe, which was cosy, chatty and candle-lit – a place that feels like you’re where everybody wants to be. With mains ranging from £17-£22 and starters around £10, it’s not a budget local spot, but would be suited to a posh third date or low-key celebration, your friend’s just got a promotion or it’s your birthday week.

Be warned, however, that there is nothing impromptu about Goodbye Horses. While walk-ins are accepted, the bookable tables get snapped up well in advance.

We didn’t stay for dessert, although the treacle tart with custard looked a treat, and if you’re there from Wednesday to Sunday you can pop across the road to sister venue The Dreamery, a similarly beautifully decorated spot serving ice cream and wine.

Be prepared to queue here too!

Goodbye Horses
21 Halliford Street, N1 3HB
Open Tuesday to Sunday
www.goodbyehorses.london