Okra fries cooked in a spice batter

WE are all familiar with the hybrid pub concept: a plate of Thai noodles, for example, served with your cold pint of Stella Artois. Yet here in the capital, the “Desi pub” is less well-known.

These are more widespread in the Midlands: old-fashioned pubs now run by Asians and often serving Punjabi food.

The Tamil Prince in Islington is a riff on this idea. Last summer, the two owners transformed the Cuckoo pub in Hemingford Road into a smash hit pub-bar-Tamil restaurant – and an unforgettable place to eat out.

To get a flavour of the experience, picture one of their signature dishes: a pillow-sized, puffed-up bread still glistening from a brief dunk in the deep fryer, served with a fragrant chickpea curry.

The menu here may ring a bell with anyone who has visited Roti King, the epically popular basement restaurant near Euston station.

Chef Prince Durairaj used to work there, alongside his new business partner, Glen Leeson.

During the Covid lockdowns, they opened a highly rated street food kiosk in Hackney called Tamila, which serves rotis, dosas and curries.

Next was this wood-panelled 19th century pub, which they stripped back and painted in deep, dark blues. Lighting is subtle and cosy: flickering candles and low-watt bulbs. There’s an eclectic soundtrack. Dainty vases of flowers dot the tables.

You’ll hear the clatter of ice from the bar, where staff shake up cocktails such as a Masala Mary or Toffee Old Fashioned.

Grab a stool at the long counter on the left; or reserve a precious table at the back of the room, from where you can watch the chefs through a large glass window.

Flames spurt from the grill where they sizzle lamb chops; one chef stretches and spins dough for their rotis and other flatbreads – a compelling spectacle all in itself.

I managed to grab a single seat by the window. First up was a large uttapum – a flatbread made with rice and lentils – dabbed with morsels of tender spiced beef and flecks of coriander, served with a chilli coconut chutney.

A bowl of okra fries was crisp and crunchy to a fault, the okra sliced lengthways then cooked fast in a spiced batter made with chickpea flour.

You can choose larger plates of lamb, chicken or a paneer butter curries. There are bronze platters of grilled tiger prawns or that crowd-stopping chickpea curry.

But I stuck with the finger food and starters, tearing and dipping a roti to dip into my dahl makhani.

On the night I visited, The Tamil Prince was humming. You get the sense that every customer is simply thrilled to have bagged a table.

I shared my platter of desi salad with strangers sitting next to me: a huge tangle of radish, cherry tomato, cucumber, rocket, carrot, pomegranate and red onion.

This re-imagined neighbourhood pub is well worth a special trip. Book ahead then enjoy the ride.

The Tamil Prince
15 Hemingford Rd, N1
info@thetamilprince.com
07988 750721
www.thetamilprince.com