Cured mackerel with blood orange at The Constitution

THEY threw quite a bash to celebrate the first birthday of The Constitution – a revamped pub that is back from the brink.

Built in 1858, The Constitution is the last free-standing pub in Camden. As the manager says: “It’s been an iconic venue – since forever …”

Perched on the edge of the Regent’s Canal, this handsome and historic building is the last relic of an area once called Agar Grove Town.

The pub shut abruptly in February 2020 then lay empty for four grim years.

But fair play to the brewery Young’s, who have invested in a glorious renovation.

The ground floor is vast, with a swooping wood-panelled bar and walls dotted with framed photos that evoke the spirit of traditional pub culture. In one photo, a young Prince Charles is pulling a pint. There are charming black and white photos of pubs through the centuries; a wall of ornate gilt mirrors; a grandfather clock in one corner.

Downstairs you find a cosy cellar bar. Outside, stairs link the canal towpath to a large, decked beer garden, then a spiral staircase offers another route up to the terrace bar and dining room – a suntrap of gleaming glass with a handy retractable roof.

Restoring a pub from scratch like this offers a golden opportunity to capture the spirit of the times.

The Constitution still feels like a boozer. Looking around, the customers represented all walks of Camden life, with some popping in for a best bitter and packet of crisps.

But the food and drink menus are cranked up a notch or two.

A glass of house wine is just £6; but you can splash out on a bottle of Barolo or sip a glass of manzanilla sherry from a fashionable bodega.

The food menu includes fish and chips and burgers – around £18 – but some ingredients hint at loftier ambitions: a sea purslane butter with the steak and chips or a dash of artisanal malt vinegar.

The chef here is called Jay Bond and he’s the real deal.

We started our meal on the roof terrace with a visually stunning dish of cured mackerel with blood orange and a chilli vinaigrette.

Hot croquettes are filled with lamb and draped with a single anchovy, then carefully plated on a green lake of leek velouté

A vegetarian dish of charred Hispi cabbage is a clever creation, nestling on a bed of whipped feta with a tangle of pickled fennel and butter beans spiked with harissa.

The new spring menu is well priced at £18 for two courses; £22 for three.

Dishes include mussels with smoked bacon and Young’s beer and a Yorkshire rhubarb and Bramley apple crumble with lashings of custard.

This dog-friendly pub also offers Sunday roasts, quiz nights, Margarita Mondays and other events.

The Constitution was crying out for an owner with deep pockets to revive its fortunes. It took a while – but it’s a job well done.

The Constitution
42 St. Pancras Way, NW1
020 8104 1966
www.theconstitutioncamden.co.uk
@constitutioncamden