Famous deli is laid low by the pandemic
‘Business not back to normal’, says manager of Soho’s I Camisa & Son
Friday, 9th December 2022 — By Tom Foot and Sofia Lammali

‘An indispensable feature of Soho…’
A HISTORIC deli has been forced to close with the manager warning trade has not recovered after the Covid-19 pandemic.
Owners of I Camisa & Son in Old Compton Street – which dates back almost 100 years in Soho – have decided not to renew their lease and will shut up shop on Christmas Day. Landlords Shaftesbury, which reduced rent during the lockdowns, are asking for what they were getting in 2019.
The Extra understands a cocktail of rising energy prices, rates and VAT have led to the closure of another Soho institution.
Cristina Onuta, manager of I Camisa & Son, said: “The last three years have been difficult. We had a good business trade before the pandemic. After the pandemic, the business is not back to normal. We never recovered. There’s not enough business. It took us a long time to make the decision. We’ll see what’s going to happen with the petitions.”
The Soho Society has created a petition in support of the deli and called on the city council to meet the landlords to find a solution.
I Camisa & Son was first opened by brothers Ennio and Isidoro Camisa in 1929 as the capital’s first real Italian food store at 66 Old Compton Street. After this closed, the brothers reopened another store in 1948 in Berwick Street before the deli reopened in Old Compton Street in 1961. The family sold to Italian importer Alivini in 2014.
The petition, organised by Soho Society chairman Tim Lord, said: “Camisa and Son has operated in Soho since the 1950s and is the last traditional Italian deli in Soho, much loved by residents, chefs and people from all over London.
“Business is not yet back to pre-pandemic levels but the freeholder wants the rent back to where it used to be and this means the business will now close. We are asking for the freeholder (Shaftesbury), the business and the council to meet to see if there is a way to save this historic business. Sign here if you think they should.”
The petition had been signed by 3,500 people, including Jane Boyd who said: “I Camisa has been an indispensable feature of Soho for nearly 100 years. It is a part of the weave of the history of many families and fine restaurants.”
In a statement Shaftesbury had said: “We are really sad that I Camisa & Son has decided to leave Old Compton Street to focus on their wholesale business.” A spokesperson said. “We have supported the business over the last 15 years, and more recently throughout the pandemic, and wish them every success in the future.”
Labour West End ward councillor Jessica Toale said: “This makes me extremely sad. Soho has lost some of its most iconic businesses, reminders of the communities that have shaped the neighbourhood.”