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He came from a little-known region of China to paint
but Akbar Mijit died soon after ariving in Britain. Dan Carrier
uncovers a tragic love story behind the death of a young artist
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Sally McCrae

Green Urn by Akbar

Sally and Akbar on their wedding day

Nature
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IT wasnt love at first sight, but within weeks the English
teacher from Chalk Farm and the artist from the ancient city of
Kashgar in the north-western Chinese province of Xinjiang Uighur
were spending more and more time together.
Working in the same school, Sally McCrae and Akbar Mijit realised
they had much in common, despite coming from vastly different
cultures. Sally, 42, had been sent to China on a Voluntary Service
Overseas (VSO) scheme to help English teachers. She knew little
about the place she had been posted to. She didnt speak
Chinese nor did she know about the Arabic dialect in the
western provinces of the Peoples Republic where she was
working.
But Sally, who had quit her job selling haberdashery from a stall
at Hampstead Community Centre, was immediately captivated by the
feel of the Uighar province.
And Akbar Mijit, a popular artist from the region, became her
guide.
But as Akbars first ever British exhibition opens this week
called From Kashgar to Camden the sad
tale of his brief life can be told.
Uighar is geographically diverse. The name Kashgar means a
place as beautiful as jade and is a jewel for the Peoples
Republic of China, because of its abundance of natural resources
and strategic position on the western borders.
The Tien Shan mountains encircle the Taklamakan desert
the name means those who go in never come out. A testimony,
guidebooks say, not to hidden dangers but because of the oasis
fed by mountain waters that captivates travellers.
As she explored, she felt herself falling for her new friend and
the country he was showing her.
She explains: Akbar was sent to me to help do some administration
regarding my stay. He lived in the same work unit as me
a community like an Israeli kibbutz. We kept meeting on the campus
and he was interesting.
He took her sightseeing. Wandering along the banks of the Tuman
river where 100,000 people gather each Sunday to trade at a bazaar,
she was awestruck by the women dressed in rainbow coloured silks
and men wearing embroidered doppa hats.
Among the traders she found one-man workshops where craftsmen
used metal, fabrics, leather and stone. She could see why her
new artist friend was so inspired by his home. Akbar was known
in his community as a singer and storyteller as well as a painter,
keeping the areas ancient traditions alive and she saw his
surroundings in his work.
She explains: Nothing prepared me for the stimulation of
all my sense: the sights, the smells, everything was totally different
to what I was used to.
She had settled, and the couple realised they had met their soul
mates. They decided to marry.
There were cultural differences but both families were thrilled.
Sallys brother John and sister Fiona trusted her and they
respected the whirlwind romance. His family felt the same. As
Sally put it: I never expected to go to China and get married
but it felt right.
However, there were worries about the attitude of the Chinese
authorities. Sally adds: In China if some one is said to
be influencing others it can be a crime. I had to be careful to
make sure people where not perceived to be influencing me over
my relationship or my views towards China and politics here.
The Uighars make up 47 per cent of the regions population
but their language is suppressed.
Made to learn both Chinese and English at the expense of their
own Arabic tongue, there has long been a separatist movement and
Akbars well-known promotion of a suppressed culture could
have made their relationship tricky.
For me, what was so wonderful was the sense of dignity of
these people, explains Sally. They have very little
but have huge self-respect, despite their situation.
But the love story was destined to come to a tragic end.
The pair came to London in 1998. Akbar wanted to explore the west
and with Sallys VSO placement finishing they set up home
in Crogsland Road, Chalk Farm, where Akbar continued to paint.
But one day in September 2001 he complained he did not feel well:
a trip to the doctors discovered he was suffering from a cancerous
tumour in his stomach.
It spread to the base of his spine but physicians at the Middlesex
Hospital were hopeful. It was virulent but they decided intensive
chemotherapy would work and the couple spent six months going
through the treatment.
The doctors thought they had it beaten and gave Akbar a three-week
high dosage of chemotherapy to finish off the disease. But his
body could not cope and he died.
Four years later she still feels the pain of losing a husband
she had little time with. Akbars legacy a collection
of pictures inspired by his home in Uighar and his brief time
in London is now being shown for the first time.
And with it she not only hopes to show her late husbands
work, but bring attention to one of the forgotten provinces of
China.
She says: He had a passionate commitment to his homeland.
It is also a form of grieving for Sally. She had to return his
body to his home town and was greeted by hundreds of people who
had turned out to see her and offer condolences.
Sally said: It felt like Princess Dianas funeral,
she said. I realised how important he was to their culture
when I bought him home.
The Kashgar to Camden exhibition opens at The Sweet Tea
House Gallery, 264 Globe Road, E2, today (Thursday) and closes
on Sunday, May 22. Entrance free.
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